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Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a derivative of vitamin C used in skincare and beauty products. It is highly stable chemically speaking, and it is water-soluble. It acts as an antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals that damage the skin.
It can also be useful in brightening dull skin, firming skin, and reducing wrinkles.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a good ingredient for anti-aging creams, dark spot correctors, and melasma treatment. It is also great for daily moisturizer use, protecting skin cells from the sun damage caused by UV light, pollution, and smoke. People who has acne and suffer from post acne scars and dark spots will also benefit from this wonderful ingredient.
What’s more is that, like vitamin C, sodium ascorbyl phosphate boosts collagen production, making skin appear more plump and tight. It acts as a hydration barrier, keeping your skin viable and pliable. It is also gentler on the skin than pure vitamin C and other derivations. So, it’s a wonderful ingredient in daily skincare to reverse melasma in a variety of ways!
One drawback to mention about sodium ascorbyl phosphate is that it is one of many different derivations of vitamin C. Each derivation has its own benefits and drawbacks, making it very confusing to understand which is the best ingredient for your skincare. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is generally safe for all skin types and is less irritating than other derivations of vitamin C, though it is possible those with sensitive skin may experience mild irritation.
Melasma is a specific example of hyperpigmentation. Melasma looks like whole patches of brown or darker skin across the parts of the face and neck. Melasma is common among women who are pregnant - it’s even referred to as “the mask of pregnancy.” But melasma can occur in both men and women who are not pregnant, too. Melasma can be caused by UV damage, but there are also genetic, hormonal, and medication-induced causes for melasma, too.
There are a variety of topical ingredients that can be used to lighten the skin from melasma or reduce its appearance. Each ingredient works in different ways, and each has their own benefits and drawbacks. hydroquinone, arbutin, vitamin C (ascorbic acid, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, etc) are some of the most commonly used ingredients for melasma treatment.
Hydroquinone is a skin lightening cream that works by suppressing the production of melanin. There are drawbacks to using hydroquinone, however, including cancer risks demonstrated by recent scientific studies, as well as hydroquinone-induced ochronosis.
Arbutin is a synthesized derivative of hydroquinone. It acts as a powerful skin lightening ointment that works a bit differently than hydroquinone. It blocks the production of melanin instead of “bleaching” the skin.
Vitamin C can be used as a brightening agent to lighten the hyperpigmentation of your sunspots or melasma. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing the formation of melatonin.
Ascorbic Acid is actually the formal scientific name for one form of Vitamin C. It can refer to either a naturally occurring Vitamin C found in foods such as citrus, or a synthetic form of ascorbic acid created to be more shelf-stable for skincare products like discoloration repair lotions and creams.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is another form of Vitamin C. By synthesizing this compound from Vitamin C, dermatologists are able to give us all the benefits of Vitamin C in a more shelf-stable form that can also be soluble in oil to make more effective, deeper penetrating skin products. (Herndon 2016)
Ingredients in the vitamin A family (ie. Retinol, tretinoin, etc) and acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid) help damaged pigmented skin cells shred faster, so they also help with melasma.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate may be effective for melasma, but there are many other factors that may affect whether this ingredient would work on your skin or if there are better ingredients that may work for you. Take this skin quiz to find the best ingredients for your skin and build your skincare routine.
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